A Day Trip to Jerez de la Frontera

We’re not people who would put something on one of our tours without testing it ourselves. So naturally, we had to make a few trips to sherry country. This meant the arduous task of tasting sherry not once but at least three different times. Tough job. Someone had to do it.

But I’ll be honest: Jerez has become more than just a research-trip destination. I’ve been going regularly for years now, and last year I finally made it to the Feria de Caballo. Jerez has a distinct character that Seville doesn’t have and doesn’t try to replicate: sherry country, horses, and a flamenco tradition with its own deep roots. It’s worth understanding on its own terms, not just as a day trip from somewhere else.

So allow us to present you with a day trip to Jerez de la Frontera!

Location

Region: Andalusia
Province: Cádiz
Municipality: Jerez de la Frontera
A little over an hour south of Seville.

Getting There

The easiest and most enjoyable way to get to Jerez from Seville is by train. When my cousins visited from the UK last year, that’s exactly what we did: straight from Santa Justa station, no car, no stress.

Renfe runs a frequent service between Seville Santa Justa and Jerez de la Frontera. The journey takes approximately one hour. Trains run often enough that you can leave after breakfast and be back in Seville in time for dinner, with a full day in between. Tickets are inexpensive and bookable in advance at renfe.com. I’d recommend booking ahead rather than turning up on the day, especially if you’re going during a festival week. It’s a genuinely easy journey and one that lets you arrive relaxed.

What’s in a Name? Brief History

The name Jerez goes back to the Phoenician Xera, Sèrès, later Romanized under the name of Ceret. The current Spanish name came by way of the Arabic name. During the Muslim period in Iberia, it was called Xerez or Xerés. The word Frontera is the Spanish word for frontier, as Jerez was located on the Spanish border between the Moorish and Christian regions of Spain during the 13th century.

Jerez was not the only town to carry this suffix. Across Andalusia, a string of towns bore the “de la frontera” name, each one marking the border zone between Christian territories and the Emirate of Granada. For more than two centuries, this strip of frontier towns represented the European border between Christianity and Islam — a fact that shaped the culture, architecture, and identity of every town along it, Jerez included.

The old spelling “Xerez” survives in several foreign languages up until recently and continues to influence the name given to sherry: Portuguese Xerez, Catalan Xerès, English sherry, French Xérès.

The discovery of the Americas and the conquest of Granada in 1492 made Jerez one of the most prosperous cities of Andalusia through trade and its proximity to the ports of Seville and Cádiz. Attracted by the economic possibilities offered by the winemaking business, a substantial foreign European population (English, Flemish, Portuguese, and, most notably, Genoese) moved into the city.

Being just about an hour outside of Seville and given its historical significance and renowned wine industry, it only made sense that we would include Jerez in our Culinary Tours in Seville. While we don’t squeeze it into our 4-day, 5-night experience, it is part of the week-long program.

Feria de Caballo

I finally attended the Feria de Caballo for the first time last year, which, considering how long I’ve lived nearby, was overdue. It has its own character, quite distinct from Feria de Abril in Seville: the horses aren’t a backdrop here, they’re the whole point. Jerezanos dress for the occasion, ride through the fairgrounds, and bring a particular kind of quiet pride to the whole thing that feels entirely their own.

Things to Do

Visit the Alcazar of Jerez: As in Seville and Granada, the city has its own Alcazar with its ruins, Arab baths, and spectacular views. The city has done a wonderful job of creating an audio guide you can listen to on your phone in multiple languages.

Explore the Cathedral: A Neogothic masterpiece from the end of the Romanesque period with several paintings and works of great quality, including several Virgin Marys by Francisco de Zurbarán.

Tour the Jerez Wine Cellars (Bodegas): Visiting the bodegas is a must on your day trip to Jerez de la Frontera. If you only visit one, make it Tio Pepe. Check out their tours. For another great experience, a bit more high-class, I say stop by Lustau for wines with a slightly acidic and woody taste. We particularly enjoyed the more intimate feel of Diez Merito‘s visit which you have to book by appointment via email and we love showing off the world’s smallest sherry bodega, Santa Petronila to our clients and visiting friends. The tours usually end with a tasting or can be booked additionally. I recommend trying the Palo Cortado sherry.

 

Things to Eat

To make it back home in one piece after the bodegas, it is necessary to eat.

La Carbona: A Michelin experience with an en-vogue chef among Spain’s rising stars. To discover without fail. Visit their website. C. San Francisco de Paula, 2, 11401 Jerez de la Frontera, Cádiz

Las Banderillas: When my cousins were visiting, this is where we had lunch. My recommendation: order the Cola de Toro. Braised oxtail, a classic of Andalusian cooking done properly, and exactly the right thing for a long family lunch in Jerez. Even the tapa size can be sufficient depending on the number of people. C. Caballeros, 12, 11403 Jerez de la Frontera, Cádiz

Flamenkana: I haven’t been yet, but it’s firmly on my list. A friend who lives in Jerez and has eaten there several times pointed me to it: West and North African food with flamenco, Jerez style. Jerez has its own long relationship with African culture and the roots of flamenco itself, and a restaurant that weaves those threads together is not one to overlook. Trusted local tip, passed on as such.

Warique Peruviano: A little Peruvian restaurant with amazing jalea. Check them out on Facebook. Pl. del Banco, 4, 11403 Jerez de la Frontera, Cádiz

And don’t forget to tip appropriately in Spain. For more, check out this guide.

 

Did You Know?

Since 1987, the Grand Prix motorcycle racing has been held at the Circuito de Jerez in early May. Thousands of bikers from around the world come to the city during this week to watch the MotoGP race held in Jerez annually. It’s one of the most-watched races in Europe.

Another popular festival is the Feria del Caballo, celebrated annually in May. It’s one of the most famous Spanish fairs, held in the Parque González Hontoria. All booths (casetas) are open to the public, allowing attendees to enjoy food, drinks, and dancing.

Holy Week in Jerez, as in other cities in Andalusia, commemorates the Passion of Jesus Christ with Catholic religious brotherhoods and fraternities performing penance processions on the streets during the last week of Lent.

During the Christmas season, from the end of November to the end of December, many peñas (religious and cultural clubs) celebrate with public festivals where anyone can go to drink, eat, dance, and sing Christmas carols.

Jerez is part of the Let’s Eat Seville itinerary. We spend two days there across the week: one for the market and a cooking class, one for the bodegas and a sherry tasting. If this post has you thinking a day trip isn’t quite enough, that might be your answer.

So, there you have it! Your guide to an unforgettable day trip to Jerez de la Frontera. From the historic Alcazar to the vibrant sherry bodegas, Jerez has something for everyone. Ready to explore? Pack your bags, and let’s go on a day trip to Jerez de la Frontera! Buen viaje!